Guitar Humidification Tips :

So, it's time once again to wince & fret over the dreaded "humidification" drill... well, for many of us in dry cold climates, where the furnace runs from early November through March, it can be quite a headache. We share your concern for the need to take good care of your mandolin or guitar, for fear it will suffer poking fret ends, a top seam crack, or worse - even come to need a neck reset.

There are so many varied recommendations on the market, on forums, and in magazines - but where to turn? We've spent years searching for a simple low-maintenance product that works, and can instill confidence in your efforts. I think we may have a solid suggestion in the specialty products from Oasis. Their unique design provides water vapor transmission, without the worry of liquids wicking into your case or on your instrument, and with a simple glance you know when it is time to refill.

"How many humidifiers will I need in my case"? Well, obviously that will vary depending upon your RH (relative humidity). Our instrument builders typically agree, 45% RH +/- 5% is ideal (range of 40% to 50%) year round. To determine how much moisture you need to add to the case atmosphere you will need a hygrometer. Oasis has a simple, compact designed digital hygrometer that will fit inside your case. There is an assortment of well designed, versatile humidifiers from Oasis to suit your application needs, for safe keeping inside your case and inside the sound hole.

View all Humidification Products

Your hand-crafted instrument is made from the finest materials available, and need to be treated responsibly.  In order to insure that yours will last a lifetime in good condition, we recommend you follow these guitar maintenance guidelines:

Solid wood instruments and their finishes are affected by temperature, as well as humidity.  They shrink and swell as their environment changes, which is why we maintain our shop at 45% relative humidity and 73 degrees Fahrenheit.

Unfinished areas such as fretboards & bridges (also the interior of acoustic instruments) take on and give off moisture.  Exposure to low humidity can shrink wood, “delaminate” lacquer and cause acoustic sound-board tops to crack.  There are tell-tale signs to watch before this happens, such as string action dropping, tops sinking, fret ends protruding, glue joints separating, grain sinking, etc.  (Learn more about your options for controlling humidity here).

A dry or sunken top can also put stress on the sides of an acoustic guitar.  Back seams on acoustic guitars & mandolins can also separate due to dryness. High humidity can cause instruments to swell, causing binding separations, splitting joints etc. These types of damage are not covered by most builders’ warranties.

Please keep your instrument in its case and use a soundhole humidifier to regulate the RH (relative humidity) when necessary; especially if you live in dry areas or cold weather regions where indoor heat is required.  Please follow the instructions on whatever humidifier you choose and beware of over-humidification.

Most mountain states have dry climates, however even areas near the beach in southern California can have days with single digit humidity.  An apartment building in New York City can likewise be damaging without the proper care.  A small digital hygrometer, placed in the room with your instruments (or even inside the case), will help you monitor the climatic conditions to which your instrument is exposed.  A room humidifier might help in some areas.  Conditions with a relative humidity below 40% or above 60% can begin to cause stress in any instrument built from wood.

Always store your instrument in its hard-shell case.  Be sure to remove any accessories that might damage the instrument through prolonged contact, i.e. capos or anything made of vinyl or plastic.  The rubber padding on certain stands, and also chemicals such as insect repellant can also cause damage to the finish.  Even the dyes used in some leather straps may “bleed” into the finish of your instrument.

If your instrument is equipped with a pickup, we recommend removing the battery before shipping your acoustic guitar, and also during extended storage periods.  (For detailed shipping advice, see our FAQ “Shipping Procedures”)

Never use an abrasive wax, or any polishes that contain citrus oils or silicones.  While they may not cause immediate damage to the instrument’s finish, they could impact future finish work, should it ever be required.

If you have any questions concerning the care and maintenance of your instrument, please contact us by email info@artisanguitars.com or give us a call by phone at 615.595.2544.  Whether your question is about an instrument you purchased from us – or a brand that we don’t offer, we are pleased to offer our advice and assistance.

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As Written on the Santa Cruz Website:

In our endless quest for the best products to enhance, protect, and maintain your prized Santa Cruz guitar we have developed a premium wax specifically for SCGC's nitro cellulose lacquer finish. The formula has no additives such as silicone that could harm your finish. It contains some proprietary elements in very high quality Carnauba wax that will protect and enhance your lacquer finish.

A wonderful benefit of SCGC Wax is that it doesn't leave an unsightly white line around the edges of the bridge or fingerboard where it extends over the guitars top or where the neck heel joins the body. It is still prudent to avoid a build up of wax in these areas. Be careful not to get wax or polish of any kind into cracked or chipped finish as it will seriously resist any future attempts to repair the finish. Do not use on bare wood such as the fingerboard or bridge as the wax will dry white in the pores. We will have an excellent treatment especially formulated for SCGC's unfinished wood surfaces available soon. If your neck has a satin finish it was applied to make the neck faster by reducing drag. Don't use wax or oils on these necks as it will diminish this benefit.

Make sure that the guitar is free of debris that could cause abrasion. Use a scratch-free cloth such as Micro-fiber, flannel, etc. and use the cloth to dip a small amount of wax, way less then a teaspoon. Only apply to one surface, back, top, or one side at a time. Start with the back at first, as it is a surface free of obstructions. Apply the wax using a circular motion to completely cover the desired area. Let it set for one to three minutes. Using a clean cloth and a circular motion you will remove the wax and achieve a great gloss at the same time. You have created a beautiful surface that will protect your fine finish from perspiration, skin oils, or errant beverages for a long time.

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